Archive for July, 2008

TUTORIAL : GRADING & UNDERSTITCHING

This is a very short tutorial to teach you a couple of easy techniques that can have huge impact on your garment making. A lot of modern patterns skip these steps, often suggesting top-stitching instead. Top stitching is useful, even pretty in some cases, but it certainly isn’t refined. Once you understand grading and understitching you will see how useful they are. You can use these easy techniques in your facings, waistbands, linings and anywhere else that your seam allowance is pressed together and not open. Grading reduces the bulk of your seam allowance and encourages the seam to lie flat. The understitching keeps the inner layer from rolling to the outside and gives a clean, professional look.

For me, it’s the little tricks like these that really give me such pleasure and pride in my dressmaking.

Did you know that My Little Pony; is 25 years old? Check out the My Little Pony Project, 25 artists are designing 25 ponies! {via NOT COT} I never actually had a My Little Pony, I was too obsessed with Strawberry Shortcake.

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OUTSTANDING IN EVERY FIELD



Rainy day Hunters, originally uploaded by the workroom.

The best purchase that I’ve made this year has got to be my Hunter Wellington boots. I’ve never had such fun tromping around in the rain. It’s so nice to be at an age where you get total satisfaction just from being practical. I also quite enjoy knowing that the Queen and I share similar footwear.

That vintage dress you see there was a generous gift from Megan. (Megan – Thank you! It fits and I love it!) Those stripey socks are much loved, but rarely worn. I’m happy I was able to fit them into today’s outfit, they remind me of candy.

I’ve got a new little tutorial for you today.

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LOCAL : CHOCO SOL



Xocolatl, originally uploaded by the workroom.

This post is especially for Ellie – Happy Belated Birthday! I hope we’ll share some drinking chocolate very soon.

A few weeks ago I finally made it to the Sorauren Farmer’s Market on Monday. There are so many markets throughout the city, but Monday is my day off and luckily Sorauren is close to home. The one stall that I was immediately drawn to was Choco Sol’s. They sell eating chocolates and drinking chocolates that are horizontally-traded, bicycle-powered and stone ground. I bought a biodegradable container of their Xocolatl, which comes with three discs of drinking chocolate (the ingredients are roasted cacao & raw organic cane sugar) and a molinillo. The molinillo is a beautifully carved wooden whisk that is used to whip the drinking chocolate into a froth. When you hold it between your palms, you just rub the handle back and forth, causing the molinillo to spin and aerate the chocolate drink. I don’t drink coffee, so this has become my new morning ritual. The xocolatl has a rich roasted flavour that I would associate with coffee, I always add a bit more raw sugar to mine because I prefer to have it sweet rather than slightly bitter. I feel absolutely no guilt drinking this pure chocolate-goodness, but here is some scientific research. If you need that sort of thing.

You can also catch Choco Sol at the Dufferin Grove Market on Thursdays and the Brick Works on Saturdays.

My Favourite Drinking Chocolate (hot or cold) places in NYC
Chocolate Bar
Jacques Torres

I also picked up some goat’s milk cheese from Montforte Dairy Company Ltd. at the Farmer’s Market. I can’t resist cheese, especially goat cheese.

Did you know that you can bake bread in a rice cooker? I feel like i should have known that. Check out this photo tutorial by elissabetha. Very cool!

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13 DRESSES : DRESS 7 & 8

Dress #7, originally uploaded by the workroom.

Dress 7 – Burda E971 Tunic
Fabric - Grey Asha by Kaffe Fasset

This tunic dress is a free download from the Burda Fashion website. If you’ve never downloaded a pattern off the internet, it usually means that the pattern has been tiled over many pages. Be prepared to print off 30+ sheets of paper and then have to tape them all together. I found this to be one of the few perks of working in an office, the endless supply of paper and high quality printers to facilitate such projects

I was very excited about this dress. I taped the pattern together, cut it out, then cut out my fabric and started to read the instructions. OOPS! I quickly found out that the pattern did NOT include the seam allowance. I talk about this all the time in my classes, always check your seam allowance on a pattern. I had heard that some patterns don’t include it, but to be honest, I had never encountered it. It’s not just an urban sewing myth, they do exist!

The tunic dress is quite loose, so the biggest effect that not having the seam allowance made on this project was that it was impossible for me to put the sleeves in. There was just nothing at the shoulders for me to sew the sleeves onto. Thus, the dress turned into a sleeveless dress with bias trim around the armholes. The dress is still cute, but not exactly what I had planned.

Dress #8

Dress 8 – Burda E971 Tunic (round 2)
Fabric – Fresh Poppies by Amy Butler

I hope you don’t think that this is cheating, but I had to get this pattern right. I went back and added seam allowance on all the pattern pieces and started again. The second time around was pretty easy. I really loved the cute puff sleeves of the tunic. There’s a piece of elastic sewn into the sleeve cuff that makes those tiny gathers. It’s my favourite detail, I’m a sucker for gathering. I don’t often repeat the same pattern, but I’m happy that I did for this one, just for the sleeves.

There are some important lessons to be learned here. a) Always read through the instructions of your project before cutting out your fabric and embarking on a potentially heart breaking journey, b) a 1/2″ seam allowance doesn’t seem like a lot, but it has great impact on a garment and c) if something goes wrong, don’t fight it, just go with it and make the best of it. Mistakes are fantastic lessons and lead to unexpected discoveries. (or sleeveless dresses)

There’s only five more weeks until Labour Day and five more dresses to go….

Dress #8

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TUTORIAL : IRONING BOARD MAKEOVER

Here it is! My very first online photo tutorial. This is a super easy project, that can spruce up your sad ironing board into something rather charming. If you’re following along, I’m working on making my ‘ironing stations’ more bright and cheery with pin boards and now cute ironing board covers. I thought I’d share the process with you in case you wanted to do the same thing.

It was harder than I thought, making sure every single step was documented. If something isn’t clear, please leave some comments. I’d love love love to hear what you think! (Especially if you like it & I’ll do more!)

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PIN BOARD PERSEVERANCE

Reading piles of crafty/designy blogs everyday leads to lots of saved bookmarks of things to try out. Making a fabric-covered pin board and fabric-covered thumbtacks has been floating near the top of my mental ‘crafty projects list’ for over a year.

The main problem has been sourcing out the paper board that most people in the States use as the base, homasote. Homasote is a recycled paper board that is used in construction and apparently makes ideal pin board material, as it can be covered or even painted. They had never heard of it at my local Home Depot, Rona or Home Hardware. I contacted Homasote directly trying to find out who they sold it to in Toronto. I was given the name of a place in Rexdale, who carries it in 4′x8′ sheets, but can’t cut it down. The distance and the logistics of it were too discouraging.

Recently, I decided to give up on the idea. I thought I would just go get a ‘regular’ cork board from Staples and just stain it dark grey to keep it from looking too much like a ‘regular’ cork board. I swear, I read somewhere that you can stain cork. Well, when I stained the cork board it started bubbling all over. What! I hauled it down into the basement and put it under some piles of drywall and tiles hoping that the weight over a couple weeks would flatten the whole thing out again. No such luck. I had ruined a perfectly ‘regular’ cork board.

Why was I settling for ‘regular’ anyways?

Every once in a while, i amass a huge list of errands on my day off that necessitate the use of a Zipcar. I went for the biggest car you can get, the Honda Element, so that I could drive around town and just load it up with goodies. After a bit of googling, I located another building supply place in Markham that not only carried the board, but would cut it into manageable pieces for me. The ironic thing? It’s the same building supply place that used to be around the corner from me, literally. I used to be able to walk over, borrow their dolly and haul huge sheets of wood home on my own. I was devastated when they closed that location down. I made the long drive up the DVP and I finally got my Homasote and got to have a little reunion with my old building supply pals.

The rest was a piece of cake. The boards were cut down to 2′x4′. I used two of them for the back of the shop. I have to give credit to Debbie who did all the patchwork and thumb tack covering. They look so sweet!

As for the hanging – always get advice if you don’t know what you’re doing and use the right tools! My guy at Home Hardware set me up with these amazing ‘flush mount hangers’ that can be screwed into the back of the board and then a matching one into the wall and they slide into each other. These are perfect for hanging anything large. He also set me up with the perfect drill bit, anchors and screws.

Here’s the tutorial on doing the pin board and also the fabric-covered tacks. Otherwise, buy one on etsy from Shim and Sons and save yourself the drama.

For me, it was worth it. I feel total satisfaction over conquering this craft challenge. Plus, I have enough Homasote to make a couple more boards.

Now – Any ideas on what to do with a bubbly cork board?

ADDED NOTE: I’ve had so many people ask about where I got my Homasote, so I’m posting it here. If you happen to find another location in the Toronto area, post it in the comments, tons of people are looking to find it!

Rosebank Wholesale Lumber
905-477-4011
186 Old Kennedy Road, Markham, ON L3R0L5

Flush mount hanger & finished pin board

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FOUND : CHRISTMAS IN JULY


Vintage Wrapping Paper, originally uploaded by the workroom.

Every so often, when the moons align and Jupiter is in just the right house, a special portal opens up and delivers the mother load of found treasure. When you find this rare portal, you can often return on multiple occasions to find the treasure replenished.

Please note the bounty I have rescued over the course of a week from the exact same location…

1. A large vintage glass cracker jar
2. Two small glass milk bottles
3. Two green mugs made in Japan
4. Five etched floral drinking glasses
5. Yellow round vintage cookie tin
6. Four rolls of vintage holiday wrapping paper
7. Vintage desk lamp
8. Rectangular embossed glass measuring cup

There might be more. While I was at the shop today, they got a dumpster bin and filled it to the brim. When I walked by tonight, I refrained from jumping in, due to there being witnesses. (who also happen to be my neighbours) This is where one of those invisibility cloaks come in might handy. If only I could find one of those.

Milk bottles, cracker jar and lamp

Vintage Tin

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BARCELONA SKIRT – APRON OVERLAY

Amy Butler Barcelona Skirt – Apron Overlay

Outer Fabric – City Limits Black & White Tenements
Lining Fabric – Anna Griffin Bird Print
Ties & Waistband - My Folklore Floral

Anyone who knows my sewing history, knows that I started with the skirt. Learning to make a skirt was what got me hooked on sewing. I took one skirt pattern and used it as the base for drafting all kinds of different skirts. It was the only thing I knew how to make at the time and now my closet is full of them. Before there were 13 dresses, there were about 30 skirts.

I didn’t really feel compelled to add another skirt to my collection. What interested me most about the Barcelona Skirt pattern was the Apron Overlay. I love to wear a dress with jeans and this just seems like a great way to wear a ’skirt’ with jeans.

Amy likes to use lots of fabrics in her patterns. I really find this challenging, mixing lots of different prints that I’m going to wear at the same time.  When I made the Lotus dress, I couldn’t even choose two coordinating fabrics. I decided to try it Amy’s way this time and do all three fabrics. My first selections were blues and greens, but I couldn’t get past two coordinating fabrics. I switched over to black and white and quickly settled on these three fabric choices.

While the Barcelona skirt pattern is super simple, the Apron Overlay requires a bit more attention to detail. As always, I’m impressed with Amy’s clever design and learned some great construction techniques with this reversible pattern. It’s the little touches, like the little pleat in the ties and the split front with contrast banding that make me love this sweet apron.

I wore it the other day with jeans because I had just finished it and couldn’t wait. With the crazy hot weather we’re having right now, I don’t know what I was thinking. Clearly I was in a ‘fashion trance’, where all logic goes out the window. I know I’m not the only one, ‘fess up to one of yours.

Barcelona Skirt - Apron Overlay

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THE FIRST TIME



Lucy’s ipod case, originally uploaded by the workroom.

I have to admit, I’ve been feeling extra busy this week. I have a list of things to do that is pages long and it keeps growing. There are lots of great things in the works, but sometimes I get so caught up in all the details.

Luckily, Lucy and her sister Sophie came in to do some sewing today. Lucy is 10 years old and her sister is a few years younger. It was their first time using a sewing machine and they wanted to make cases for their new ipods. This is what Lucy made, ON HER OWN. She cut out windows for the screen and wheel and put in clear vinyl, the opening at the bottom folds to the back and is secured with velcro. The design even accounts for having the earphone cord plugged in while it is in the case.

I stepped away from my silly list to watch Lucy discover sewing and just dive in to do it herself with hardly any help. It was her very first time and look at the amazing thing she made.

Do you remember the first time you used a sewing machine? I wish I could. I have vague memories of making a black tote bag on my own, perhaps during my ‘black clothing’ phase in high school, but I doubt that was my first time on the machine.

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TOOLS : VINTAGE JUICER



Vintage Juicer, originally uploaded by the workroom.

When you’re making stuff, it’s essential that you’ve got the best tools possible. Not only does it make your job easier, it often can make it quite fun. My favourite tools not only work like a charm but look pretty to boot. Yes, looks do count. The more I love my tools, the more I use them. It’s a proven fact.

When I bought this vintage juicer years ago at the 26th Street Flea Market in New York, it was purely for its looks. I had no intentions of juicing anything and my shopping partner, Dominic, enthusiastically supported the purchase purely for its vintage cuteness. I can’t even remember how much I paid for it. Perhaps $20?

It sat in my kitchen in Hoboken, looking lovely and never got near any citrus fruit. When I moved back to Toronto, it had a new kitchen to sit pretty in. One day, as I was getting ready to squeeze some lemons for a recipe, it occurred to me to try the juicer out. I cut the lemon in half, popped it under the press and cranked the handle. Not only did it get every last bit of juice out of the lemon, but it felt really satisfying to do it. Juicing lemons became a favourite activity. Any recipe that called for lemon juice was made with zest; fresh squeezed lemonade, salad dressings and lemon loaf.

The funny thing is that it never occurred to me to squeeze oranges. It’s so obvious! Just this weekend I was looking at a slightly old bag of oranges in my fridge. I was sad that they were past their prime and wondering what to do with them. FINALLY, I made the connection. Fresh squeezed orange juice!! Six oranges made two tall glasses of sweet yummy orange juice. Oh, juicer, you get better and better as time goes by.

Last night I juiced limes to make this lime yogurt sorbet. Yum! It’s quite tart, the way I like it and incredibly easy to whip up. (with the right tools) I didn’t make the grilled peaches to go with it. Now that I’ve had the sorbet, I’m curious to try the two flavours together. I’ll pick up some peaches today.

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