13 DRESSES : DRESS 9
Dress 9
Stylish Dress Book (available at the workroom)
Dress ‘F’ : Kaffe Fassett ‘Red Lotus’
The Stylish Dress Book is definitely my favourite Japanese dress pattern book so far. Almost all of the dresses in this book are super sweet looking – all in that Japanese smock aesthetic that I’m not totally convinced translates into the real world. I’m game to try it out though and so far I like it. The cool thing is that these dresses never have zippers and the construction is super simple.
I started working on this dress a few months ago. Most of these books come with a sheet or two at the back where all the patterns (sometimes 20 or more) are printed over top of each other. It definitely takes a keen eye to locate your pattern pieces, but usually they are numbered or lettered. What’s interesting is that you begin to realize the all the dresses are based on just four main templates with slight variations in sleeves, necklines, and silhouettes. I traced out my chosen pattern and headed on to cutting out fabric, serging and sewing it all together. Everything was going swimmingly until I attached the sleeves. Suddenly the dress didn’t fit in the shoulders and the sleeves didn’t have the proper fullness and ease I would expect. I thought that I had chosen a size too small. I figured I would try to re-draft a new sleeve pattern to compensate and perhaps add some fabric to the shoulders.
The project was put aside until I read this posting on The Purl Bee about Japanese patterns. Guess what? Most Japanese dress patterns don’t include seam allowance! If you’ve been following along, you’ll know that this is not my first seam allowance debacle. Once I read that, I knew exactly what went wrong with this dress. I re-examined the fit and tried to figure out if there was a was to fix the problem. I was heartbroken once again, but decided to abandon the sleeves. I got out my trusty bias tape maker and made some bias tape to finish the armholes and called it a day on dress 9.
I think I’ll try this pattern again one day because the sleeves are so incredibly cute. It actually is the perfect shift dress and that Lotus print is happy-making. All’s well that ends well.
I promise, no more accidental sleeveless dresses.
There’s a great on-going series at Label-Free on Japanese Craft Books. There are even translations of some of the common symbols that is very helpful. Thanks Anabela for the tip.
The Golden Yard has started a worldwide google map of fabric stores. It’s a collaborative project and anyone can add their favourite fabric stores to the map. It’s a great resource for when you’re traveling to new cities. {via True Up}
Dress 9, originally uploaded by the workroom.
11 comments
it still looks fantastic and super summery! i hope you will have better luck with your dresses from now on!
michelle – yes, i’m hoping that i’ve used up all my sewing mishaps for the season. we’ll see!
Hello,
I love all the models from this book. I would like to find the one that is in English. It is very popular now in France, but even there, I could not find it on the internet. Any idea where I can find one in Canada?
Thank you! I discovered your blog only today, and I will look at it with more time, I am sure I will like it!
To see models made out of this book, see http://japancouture.canalblog.com/archives/livre_64/index.html,
It is in French, but no need to understand or read it to look at the pictures!
isabelle – i didn’t know that there was an english version of this book! i’ll look around for it.
thanks so much for the link – what a great site to look at all the designs made from these japanese books.
Hey there 🙂
I realize that this post is quite old but I have a question about this dress you made. Did you add princess seams or something?
I bought this book recently and the dress shapes are mostly A-line but on you it doesn’t look like an A-line shape and is very flattering.
Is it because of the seam allowance thing? Can you still get in and out of the dress easily? And one last thing .. how much fabric did you use?
Thanks in advance for any feedback!
Best wishes,
Cass
Hi Cass – no, i made the pattern exactly as it is printed, but didn’t add the seam allowance. so perhaps this is why it is fitting so snugly around the bodice. I’ve been thinking about trying this pattern again, properly with seam allowances. I really love these sleeves. I haven’t had any problems getting in or out of it. I find that the yardage they suggest in the book is pretty accurate, so I’m sure I used exactly what they suggested. have you tried to make anything from this book yet?
No I haven’t tried anything yet. I was thinking of making this dress over the weekend as it looks quite simple. The sleeves are what drew me to this dress first! 🙂
I think I might leave out the seam allowances at the side of the bodice because I much prefer the way it looks on you compared to the incredibly baggy look in the book!
Thank you very much for your help!
love the simplicity of this dress – it really doesn’t need sleeves!
Hi there, hoping you can help me.. i am soon to make this pattern but I only have 2 yards of Amys Soul Blossom Corduroy fabric so I think I will have to shorten the length, possibly hem it with something contrasting so that I dont loose any length by hemming if that makes sense. I know now I need to add the seems in and my version is in english so hopefully easy to follow however I am wodering about the bias.. do you think it would be too tricky using the new AB cord. for the bias? I think you have it at your shop and hoping you can give advice before I cut into my only bit of fabric (shipped from USA to Australia). Can you recommend anything else that could look and sit better? Im thinking a aqua colored bias from regular cotton or even navy?
Thanks so much!
ALSO another question.. what is the chances you have the book that has the coat that Amy Butler posted in her inspiration page online for the Soul line made from the SB cord. I cant figure out which book that is from but love the style!
http://www.amybutlerdesign.com/inspiration/lifestyle.php?collection=soul_blossoms
I know that this post is very old, but I wanted to chime in that I also started with this dress…and also left the seam allowances out! Luckily on a muslin, but I was initially terrified that I had gained 20 lbs or was terrible at sewing after a hiatus of 15 years. 🙂 <= laughing at myself
HI, I buy this book later I read your recomendation, then when i begin to copy the pattern i check my base pattern of my front and back made at size and decide wich size cut. My first blouse was fine but it has some details, then in the second pattern check with more detail all the little things, and it was amazing.
I can tell you, my second blouse its beautiful!!!
Thanks for all your lines and your blog it inspire me!!!